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When in IzmiR, it would be inconceivable not to stop off for a seafood meal at one of the restaurants on the Kordon, the strip of land on the seafront, which is inundated with numerous restaurants, bars and cafes.

The variety of fish in the Izmir area is really a delightful surprise in store for seafood lovers. The gilt head bream, when small in size and well prepared, is so scandalously delicious, there is absolutely nothing on earth which can compare. Naturally, there is no need to mention the superiority of natural bream over those that are 'artificially' bred. Another delight is the red mullet caught around Izmir and served fried or grilled. Fish cooked in milk is also an Aegean speciality, available at most fish restaurants. Fish cooked in salt is yet another local speciality, served only by a few restaurants. The fish, preferably a large one, is placed in a cake of salt and baked in its own juices. Watching the fish being extracted from the hard shell of salt at the end is an additional pleasure, to be savoured by the eyes.

Izmir and its environs are famous for serving the best fried calamari in Turkey. In the Aegean, they know how to prepare it to incredible tenderness. The calamari salad, stew and fricassée, and stuffed calamari are also tastes that would never put this wonderful sea creature to shame.

Another delicacy available throughout the year is fried and stuffed mussels -try them from local street vendors! In addition to the calamari and mussels, it is a must to sample the octopus salad, grilled and fried prawns, prawn salad, prawn stew, fishballs and mixed stew. The seafood dishes prepared at restaurants are so varied and abundant that virtually no room is left for your favourite fish platter.

Although many a newcomer to Izmir will be confronted with the marvels of the sea, as listed above, it would be an appalling misconception to assume that Aegean cuisine consists of fish and seafood alone. All the same one should mention a few of the venues serving excellent seafood.

Deniz Restoran blessed with a wonderful view of the seafront is an all-time favourite of locals and visitors alike. Kemal'in Yeri with its tables that flow into the street during summer is also another popular venue where you can have oysters and mussels served in any way you prefer. Another interesting place to have seafood is the Asansör Ceneviz Meyhanesi. This restaurant is located at the top of Izmir's historical elevator and has a breath-taking view of the city especially in the evenings. Smyrna Restoran, on the waterfront also has its followers for the salt-baked fish. Pina Restoran, situated on a pedestrian street, is always fully packed because of its seafood specialities. It should also be mentioned that all the other meals at this restaurant are prepared according to the Aegean tradition.

The culinary tradition in Turkey's Aegean region is more 'diversified' than in other parts of Turkey and Izmirites enjoy countless delights at home that are unfortunately not served in most restaurants. The cuisine of the region has been influenced throughout time and touched upon by many, including Phoenicians, Egyptians, Athenians, Macedonians, Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans, Venetians, the Crusaders and Arabs. Both those who merely passed through the land, and those who settled, introduced their own culinary customs and habits and so produced the rich mosaic which can now be termed as Aegean cuisine.

At this juncture, let us delve into what we mean when we refer to 'Aegean' or Izmir's 'regional' cuisine. An abundance of vegetables and fish dishes and the widespread use of olive oil as the cardinal ingredient classify it as typically Mediterranean. Drizzled over tomatoes and cheese, even at the breakfast table, or served as a dip for bread when mixed with fragrant herbs such as thyme and basil, the virgin olive oil extracted in the region, is also used in böreks and cold dishes, as well as in traditional Turkish meat dishes, which would be a rather unusual concept elsewhere.

Greens, or wild greens which shoot up with the first drops of autumn rain, comprise yet another of the most exclusive characteristics of Aegean cuisine. Inhabitants of the region know how to spot these weeds, which they collect and sell at local markets. The simplest way to prepare these greens is to boil them and serve them as a salad, drizzled with lemon juice and olive oil. Various good examples of these dishes can be savoured at the 1888 Restoran maintaining its original decor since the day it was founded. One can also enjoy Sephardic and Spanish dishes at this restaurant.

Any reference to the salads of Izmir would be incomplete without mentioning the most delicious, tender and delicate of them all: the rocket. Almost all restaurant menus feature rocket served as a salad, as an ingredient in salads, or just the glistening leaves, served on a plate.

Any visit to a local fruit and vegetable market is a testament to the fertility of the soil. The colourful overflow of vegetables and fruits in this region include baby artichokes and the fresh black-eyed beans (börülce) peculiar to the area. Deniz börülce, also quite delicious, is found in tidal areas, and sis erved boiled, seasoned with garlic, lemon juice and olive oil. As far as vegetables are concerned, one cannot fail to mention the Aegean aubergine, an all-time favourite. This is cooked in various different ways, acquiring different names. In its puréed form, it is one of the mezes available nearly all year round. As for fruits, the fig and the seedless grape are also local favourites. They are grown in abundance in the Aegean region and are usually deliciously fresh from the fields.

One, of course, is not limited only to fish and varieties of fruit and vegetables in this city. Meat lovers can also find kebabs to their hearts' delight. There is even a street of kebab houses that could not be found in any other Turkish city. The street overflowing with restaurants on both sides will entice you even if your stomach is already full since you will not be able to escape the luscious aroma of the kebabs. Çöp sis, a speciality of the Aegean, and of the Aydin area in particular, is a taste thoroughly enjoyed by people of all ages in Izmir. Tiny pieces of meat are skewered and quickly grilled - just the thing for those unable to wait to satisfy their hunger. Çöp sis is served with grilled tomatoes, peppers and onions. It is important that the right amount of fat is used when lining up the mutton or lamb cubes on the tiny skewers for the kebab to taste just right. It may not be what the doctor ordered, but the right address for çöp sis in Izmir is the kebab parlours around the old Numune Pavyon.

Manisa kebab, on the other hand, still holds its place as a strictly regional dish. It is only available in Manisa kebab parlours. You are treated to a culinary delight, consisting of a pide, covered with yoghurt, heaped with tiny pieces of köfte grilled on a wood stove, and finally, bathed in tomato sauce.

We spoke of olive oil, but what about those delectable olives? There is a vast medley of ways to prepare olives to suit all tastes: olives pickled in brine, stone-cracked green olives ('çekiçte') or very slightly salted black ones ('sele').

Kumru, made from gevrek (the Izmir word for simit) dough is one treat found only in Izmir. It is bought from bakeries piping hot and takes the place of bread at the breakfast table. Eaten as a sandwich, filled with tulum cheese, tomatoes and green peppers, it is an ideal snack for those in a hurry.

The most practical and delicious way to satisfy your hunger in Izmir is to go to the 'katmerci', especially those at the Çesme and Urla quays. Thin layers of filo pastry are alternated with cheese or minced meat, as desired, and lightly fried in olive oil.

As far as dessert is concerned, traditional sweets are still popular in Izmir. Lokma (deep-fried pastry in thick syrup) is available at many pastry shops and ice cream and pudding made from mastic are still just as masterfully prepared as ever. Probably the best lokma in town can be savoured at Lokmaci Kemal located in a historical building in Karsiyaka.

Due to the mild climate of Izmir, many restaurants, bars and cafes have outdoor seating available, enhancing the Mediterranean atmosphere of the city. Although most of the two storey stone-walled houses surrounded by gardens are long gone, some survived to be restored to serve as restaurants or bars in Alsancak which is still the nicest residential area in Izmir. A vivid example of this is the 1824 Restoran which is a historic mansion renovated in a very elegant and tasteful manner. It offers a rich variety of Aegean dishes as well as delicious seafood.

You can also find a nostalgic glimpse of the city when you step into the old alleys in the Hisarönü-Basmane area where, for many a decade, restaurants and sweet shops have tried to maintain the tradition of old establishments .

As exemplified above, the culinary tastes and traditions of Izmir and the Aegean cuisine are indeed very rich. Nevertheless, the best way to savour these delights is to be invited to an Izmirite's home. We can assure you that you will have a pretty good chance to do so since the locals have a passion for entertaining at home.

From
Ayse Çolakoglu
Vice President, Board of Directors Intermedya

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